20 VERDICT OX.IXDIA
St. Titus dancers, real and bogus, some of them fluttering to a
ghostly music in their own brains which will never cease till they
die, others twitching for profit; and here are the lunatics, with
spittle on their chins, and the deaf and the dumb patting their
flaccid lips as they lean into your railway carnage. To these too,
in the first few days, you extend your charity. But the flock of
dreadful beings that fly towards yon, attracted by the clink of
coins, is too great; they seem to appear from nowhere, to drop
from the sky and the trees, gibbering, spitting, moaning, scream-
ing, and pointing to their sores. You give it up. You know that
the Hindi for 4go away* is * jao'; you say it reluctantly, you say it
louder, and still louder, till you find yourself shouting it. Then at
last you have peace, and silence. But it is a queer sort of silence,
that seems to be filled with reproachful echoes.
So let us arrive at New Delhi, where a very grand car is waiting
for us at the station, driven by a giant in white and gold, with
another giant sitting by his side. And as we are about to enter
the car let us turn our heads slightly to the left, in order to say a
word of thanks to a coolie who has been unusually efficient. As
we do so, the words die on our lips. We have seen something...
our first shock,
There it was, in letters a foot high, chalked on the wall a few
I blinked at it, growing rather red in the face, not through
ar.jrer, but through a sort of social embarrassment—as though one
had been found gj,te-crashing.
The words seemed to have a personal application. Out of the
comer of my eye I scanned the enormous chauffeur. Supposing
he saw it too, and turned round and barked, 'Well, you know
\\ hat to do about it, don't you ? Get out and go home ! * But the <
gunt stared impassively ahead.